Track to Messac

The trip to Messac in Brittany was interesting. Arriving early at the Montreux station gave us the chance to board an earlier train to Geneva, and thus a longer time to make our connection. The TGV takes around two hours for the approximately 550 kilometres to Paris, and while the first part of the trip is reasonably slow as the train snakes around valleys and through mountains, it soon accelerates to around 300 kilometres an hour. Again, our seats were facing backwards and we pinch some forward facing seats to avoid Jen getting sick. By now I realise we need not have forked out the dollars for reserved seats, as there has been plenty to choose from. Maybe they were needed for the Amsterdam to Basel leg. It might be a different story in the high season.

At Paris we decide to use the metro as the TGV from Geneva arrives at Gare de Lyon not far from Notre Dame, but our train to Brittany leaves from Gare Montparnasse. Initially we thought a taxi would be the best way, but Jen thought we should attempt the metro, so that clearly became the best way. My iPad has a handy Paris Metro Planner, and it did seem easy enough, with just a single change of lines. Easy on the iPad. But the iPad does not have to navigate around these vast metro stations, up numerous levels and down to even deeper levels with a singular lack of escalators. We had gotten used to the Swiss way of planning, but eventually we made it, but by this time exhausted from hauling our bags in what probably amounted to an escalation of Mount Blanc.

The TGV trains look a bit tired and worn, but at least in the first class carriages, are still quite comfortable, and at 300 k/ph chew up the distance quite rapidly. For some reason, about 20 kilometres short of Rennes where we would make our connection to Messac, the train driver put his foot on the brake, and we coasted along at a very modest pace, thus getting in late and missing our connection. Rennes station was havoc. It is a pretty big station, and lots of people had missed all sorts of connections. Confusion was in abundance, and the staff did not seem to know enough to help us.

Of course it all worked out, and we now find ourselves in Le Carre d’As. This is more like a country pub, with very unassuming accommodation, but comfortable enough, and about a third the cost of the cheapest other place we have stayed. Its main business is its bar, but it also has a wonderful restaurant. It seems they employ an actual, you know, chef – a person skilled in the art of cooking. We had a great meal last night and fantastic lunch today. It must have a good reputation, as it had been full at every sitting. I don’t think the chef does breakfast though, as our fare this morning was a basket of bread rolls, croissants, Nutella and jams. And coffee.

We had a quiet exploration of Guipry, which is the adjacent village, over the river. Being May Day, it was quiet, but a produce market was open and we were able to get some fruit and cheese and a coffee. And Jenny’s favourite, crepes. We sat at a small bar for our coffees, while our neighbours drank wine. There was an interesting sight when on old man (probably about 65) drove up to the door, almost entering, in a tiny Peugeot. He must have been a regular as the barman emerged with a large glass of red wine which the driver sank with a couple of gulps. As the barman retrieved the glass, the patron lit up a fag, swung the car back into the traffic and lurched off down the street. Maybe this is his daily outing!

There is certainly a nice feel to rural France (our 24 hour’s experience qualifying us to make a judgement!) The people are friendly and the pace of life much subdued. We ambled back to our pub, but it began raining steadily so we spent the afternoon drying out and catching up with messages, emails and Facebook (which is turning out to be a great tool of communication.)

Fiona and Don are already in Rennes and we have a lunch date with them at our pub, before we pick up our boat in readiness for the next seven days together. The weather is expected to be bright.

We are not sure about internet for the next week, so we may be in the shadows for the next week.