Netherlands

We did a bit of googling, searching on English language churches in Amsterdam, and came up with a number of suggestions. The closest also seemed the most interesting, the English Reformed Church of Amsterdam. Google maps assured us it was 1.5 kilometres and a 20 minute walk away. Given our previous pedestrian navigational experiences, we decided to leave an hour early and use the spare time for a coffee, taking care to avoid coffee shoppes!

As it turned out, it was quite easy to find, and at the location there was a door, or archway that gave access through a quite old building, to a court, or square, surrounded by beautiful, quaint, and very old Amsterdam homes. In the middle was the church, a beautiful old building, built in the late 1500s as a catholic chapel for the beguines, a lay catholic sisterhood. There is a fascinating history around this part of Amsterdam, and the Kirk is probably one of the oldest buildings in the city. There has been an English speaking congregation worshipping in this building continuously since 1607.

The congregation is part of the church of Scotland, so we felt quite at home with its liturgy.

Even though we were half an hour early, there were few seats left, and by the time the service started it was standing room only. It was a traditional service, but very well done and the message was excellent (and only 15 minutes!) About 500 in attendance.

After a very nice brunch in a cafe, we jumped on a tram up to the city central (Amsterdam Centraal) where we could start a canal ride. We had already purchased canal ride tickets on the previous day, but we still had a bit of a wait. This gave us a chance to observe some of the locals who were getting well lubricated on the local Heineken, and shouting encouragement and worse to all waiting for the canal boats. They were sitting dangerously close to the water’s edge, and both Jen and I had similar thoughts of “accidentally” bumping the ring leader into the cool waters of the canal below. We would never have the courage of course.

The coffee shops are numerous and all seem to have a lively business. I am not sure about Jenny, but I have had a very protected life and not been exposed to the wacky weed at all. My closest experience was in the late 60s when I was a student-assistant at St Andrews Presbyterian Church in Forrest. The minister, the very venerable Hector Harrison, required me to wear a black robe (and clerical collar) which I think had been used by the assistants since about 1927. Anyway, it was a bit ragged, and occasionally I would take it to a tailor in Manuka, a large Egyptian gentleman who took a fancy to me and liked to have a chat. One day, he bailed me up in the street and asked if I would like to go to a party – “plenty of hashish” he assured me. I was so innocent I had to ask what hashish was. And no, I did not go. It was the sixties though, so perhaps I should have!

As it is one simply has to stroll down these streets to get a lungful of the sweet smoke. We saw a couple of sad sights of some older folk, huddled in doorways, puffing away their cares, and probably what remained of their brains. Some people say it is harmless, but we are not convinced on that one.

Day three: Rijks Museum

Easter Monday – we had taken the advice of some trusted friends, and decided to have a look at the Rijks, noting the tip to go early. We went via the Centraal Station so we could validate our Eurail Pass, but unfortunately I had forgotten my passport. This was a bad move, as I had made sure Jenny had hers with her. We took the tram to the Rijks and found no queues and not many people, though the numbers built steadily while we were there. Rembrandt’s Nightwatch was certainly the highlight, and it easy to see why he stands out from his contemporaries, who are nevertheless, still Masters. It would not be difficult to spend days there soaking up the richness of this vast collection. Actually, on reflection, it would be very difficult, as well as expensive, because one’s poor walking tools get a bit tired.

Jen went back to the flat for a rest while I retrieved my passport and did the validating of the rail pass. I also learned that we could have saved substantial dollars by buying the pass directly rather than through an agent. I also did a recce for a decent restaurant as we are dining with our next door neighbours who are here to embark on a Rhine/Danube river cruise tomorrow, Tuesday.

We have just returned, having nourished ourselves on the most succulent of steaks from the prairies of Argentina. It was good to catch up with the Streets and swap holiday adventures.

On Tuesday we are heading for the country to see the tulips. This will be Jenny’s treat, for she has been anticipating this for some time. We’ll give you a report on that later.

Proost!