Well, after a day on safari, we apparently have free wifi, though we have yet to see the evidence. We had a restless night as often happens when an early start is scheduled, so we were up and about in plenty of time to meet our driver and guide, Walter. I had the beginnings of a chest cold and we both felt a bit seedy, so it was not the most promising start of a five day drive. We raided Jen’s little pouch containing enough to stock a small pharmacy warehouse. Amazingly we had nothing for a cold, so the first part of our journey was to locate a pharmacy. However most pharmacies seem to stock about two packets of band aids, some paracetamol, but no cough drops or lozenges. Eventually Walter acquired some poisonous-tasting brown tablets that he assured us would fend off colds and other evil spirits. They literally “took my breath away” and if not killed, then at least intimidated any bugs lurking in my throat or chest.

Our drive was South, to Tarangiri National Park, past Maasai bomas and farms, water logged from some fierce overnights storms and torrential rains. The park was also awash, the rivers flowing a muddy brown water from the deep and rich topsoil from this part of the country. Our main encounter with wildlife appeared to be with the tsetse fly which resisted our attempts to deter with Rid and Aerogard. Walter assured us that this version of the tsetse was not the sleeping sickness model. They still had a nasty little nip, though. We had hoped to see some of the big cats, were disappointed to miss out at Tarangiri. There were plenty of zebras, giraffes, impalas, wart hogs, buffalo, and elephants.

Time slips away and later in the afternoon we were driving up a narrow track and spied, at the crest of the hill a large female elephant who seemed a but agitated at our presence. Her ears spread and vibrated like a rapid drumming, and suddenly there appeared behind her an ever-growing number of her family, including a baby. What happened next was fascinating – and not a little unnerving. The elephants all backed into a circle with the baby in the middle, as a protective measure. The big Mama raised her trunk back thrusting her tusks at us in what Walter later said was a highly aggressive gesture. Walter was wise enough to realise that we needed to get out of there, as the herd started toward us, and with Jen and I contemplating that our last actions on earth was to badly irritate a herd of elephants protecting their young. We managed to escape, bumping our way along the track with the herd in hot pursuit. Walter indicated that the behaviour was not typical, but likely the result of a bad experience with some Maasai herders trying to steer the elephants away from their cattle. Anyway, it made for an exciting experience. Jen kept a good eye on the track behind for the rest of our stay in the park. Finally we made our way to the camp where we were to spend the night.

Maramboi Tented Camp is more than a collection of tents surround a campfire. Imagine a 4 star tent, complete with en suite, solar hot water, a restaurant, bar and allegedly wifi. If there was a problem it was that our tent was quite a distance from the main tent, and trekking back there in pitch dark with swamp either side of the track. Fortunately part of the service was to be escorted by a spear carrying Maasai man. During the night there was further heavy rain and thunderstorms, but we slept soundly on a luxurious bed.

At sunrise we were awoken by the sound of wildebeest thundering past our tent and the sight of the sun peeping over the distant Tarangiri hills. It was breathtaking, but not quite enough to remove the seedy feeling that continues. In fact I was quite ill after a very light breakfast.

We had a longish drive to the Lake Manyara National Park. Lake Manyara is a shallow lake which in some lights looked a little Lake Georgish, especially if you can set aside the hippos, lazing in the morning sun, and zebras and impala grazing nearby. We did not see a lot of animals, though there were many baboon troops going for a stroll, with their babies playing in the grass and chasing each other up trees and leaping on their parents’ backs for an easy ride. The park was beautiful, and quite diverse for a small park. There was dense foliage in the ground water rainforest, fed by crystal clear springs from the Rift Valley escarpment, water logged wetlands, dry acacia forest and open grasslands.

Finally we have arrived at our evening lodging, the Country Lodge at Karatu, not far from the Ngorongoro crater where we will head tomorrow, Wednesday. We just love the style and welcome of these lodges. We are met by staff with a damp towel, to wipe the dust of the day, a fresh fruit juice, and a wide grin. Karibu William and Jennifer. (We are only William and Jennifer – Bill and Jenny are not countenanced). The grounds are a spectacular oasis and our cottage comfortable and well appointed. Phoebe, our host,  is most kind and welcoming, and it is so nice to pause at the end of the day in such a pleasant, if cool, environment.

Cheers